Where East Meets West

Istanbul was a city I’d been wanting to visit for ages. Partly inspired by friends and partly by Orhan Pamuk, I was determined to visit this city of seemingly contrasting (but complimentary) cultures. European and Islamic, conservative and bohemian. Straddling Europe and Asia, and the Capital of Culture for 2010 – it seemed to be a city well worth further investigation.

After having a near escape from Easyjet, we flew with BA and landed at the airport which can honestly hold the label of being the Istanbul airport. (If you fly Easyjet, you end up miles away and on the wrong continent for most tourists to the city). Transport from the airport and around the city is pretty simple, as there are plentiful (and cheap) trams.

We were staying at Hotel Pierre Loti which had a great position in the centre of Sultanahmet, although a slightly dubious taste in decor. All was forgiven every morning though, as we breakfasted o the top floor with rooftop views over the city.

Places to Visit

Sultanahmet is dominated by two huge structures that face opposite each other. Both are normally surrounded by tourists and coach groups. One is the magnificent looking Blue Mosque, and the other is the Hagia Sofia. The Blue Mosque is apparently much better looking from the outside than the inside. I wouldn’t know as I managed to mis-time my last minute visit with prayer time, so wasn’t allowed in.

However I can tell you a bit about the Hagia Sofia.

It’s a monument to how two different religions can cohabit the same giant space. The Hagia Sofia has been both a Christian Church in Roman times, and then a Muslim Mosque in Ottoman times. Now it plays it safe by being a museum. Inside you can see the Christian and the Muslim motifs and writings side by side.

There’s no shortage of amazing bits of Ottoman architecture to see in Istanbul. The Topkapi Palace is rich with beautiful mosaics, intricate arches and calming gardens and fountains. Or you can head underground and check out the Byzantine water supply at the Basilica Cistern.

A great place to explore for an hour or so is the Grand Bazaar. I was expecting something like a Moroccan souk, but it’s a lot more organised, with a series of individual shops rather than stalls. Probably the best place to haggle for a bargain if you’re in the market for jewellery, lamps, rugs, trinkets or clothes.

It feels quite touristy, but if you know what you want and how much you want to pay then you can haggle to your heart’s content. Also hidden amongst the labyrinth of shops are some great places to get a cup of Turkish tea and some cake. (More on cake to come…)

If you manage to escape Sultanahmet (and you should), then a place to visit across the Golden Horn is the art gallery Istanbul Modern. Located in a former shipping terminal right on the edge of the Bosphorus, it’s an interesting place to explore for a few hours. And it’s free on a Thursday.

The top floor houses the permanent collection of modern Turkish art, and the lower floor has a series of temporary exhibitions. I found the lower floor the more interesting, although the first floor boasts an amazing view from the (pricey) cafe.

The next blog will be all about some of the best food and drink we found that Istanbul has to offer. Mmm…

Edinburgh Fringe – Day Three

If you’re wondering what to see at the Edinburgh Fringe 2009, this may help, but it may all be sold out. Sorry.

0930 – Gorged myself on another hotel buffet breakfast. This time added waffles into the mix. Scrummy.

1100 – Went for a stroll in Princes’ Gardens and the heavens opened. Making me very very soggy.

1200 – Walked to the Scottish Parliament to look around the press photo exhibition. It was not open on a Sunday. What a fool.

1230 – Instead I stumbled upon a very jolly hour of free comedy. Cool Fun is on at The White Horse pub on the Royal Mile. Four stand ups, with four refreshingly different styles. Ed Gamble was a cracking compere, warming up the crowd nicely and giving the whole room a warm glow. Witty poet Tom Neenan did funny verses delivered in a brilliantly dry style. Clever, but not pretentious. Jez Scharf up next was really likeable, with humour edged with pathos. Completing the foursome was Nish Kumar, who was confident, bubbly and a great conclusion to a very funny gig. And free! I even almost got my Irn Bru from the barman for free because it was just such a nice place…

1410 – To the Pleasance Courtyard once more to see Russell Kane’s Fakespeare: The Tragickal Saveings of King Nigel, down in the cellar. It was an intimate venue and we sat right in the front. It was an unnerving experience as the play unfolded almost in your lap. Very cleverly written, with the style and panache of Shakespeare, but with references to Kerry Katona and Richard and Judy. Great juxtaposition which worked to very funny effect. I was really impressed by Russell Kane, the performance and the script. Last year he took his show to the RSC and this one deserves to go too.

1600 – One farewell look around the shops in Grassmarket and then it was back on a budget plane home. A very fine festival and I wish to return for a second helping next year.

Edinburgh Fringe – Day Two

If you’re wondering what to see at the Edinburgh Fringe 2009… well, most of this will be sold out. Sorry.

0930 – Woke and ate an enormous amount at the Novotel breakfast buffet. Mmm haggis for breakfast. Plus pain au chocolat, yoghurt and toast.

1200 – Met some family friends and wandered round the Royal Mile dodging flyerers and street entertainers. Found a quiet spot at the National Gallery.

Nicola's free show at the Fringe

1510 – Saw my little sister Nicola Bolsover perform as part of Banterland – a comedy troupe of four. It was their first gig and they had a decent crowd. It’s part of the free fringe so perfect if you’re counting your pennies. There’s gigs on all over the city, usually in bars and pubs. Banterland takes place at the Rat Pack, a piano bar just at the end of Princes Street near House of Fraser. It felt slightly odd being in a dark underground bar in the middle of the day, but I soon adjusted. The foursome are all quite young (in their 20s) so the comedy was skewed a bit young for the older, local crowd the gig had drawn. The gig goes from killer Furbies, to tv theme songs, plus an unhealthy obsession with Sean Bean. (The last one’s my sister. The sci-fi loving goon.) A great giggley hour.

1945 – Was a bit late getting to The Stand Comedy Club due to the Bolsover traditional monster meal at dinnertime. Ended up jogging to the venue and almost being sick. Due to tardiness, we were at the back of the queue and had to stand for Stewart Lee. Well worth the achey legs and indigestion, as the Morrisey/Terry Christian/Edwin Collins lookalike* got into his flow. He probably only covered three topics (moving to the country, Richard Hammond and pear cider) but it didn’t feel that way. Very accurate and brilliantly scathing.

2200 – The Udderbelly pasture was heaving with Saturday night revellers but made for a nice place for a few drinks before Rhys Darby. Famous now for Murray in Flight of the Conchords, Darby’s show showed what a great character comedian he is. I was really pleasantly surprised as I’d (very wrongly) assumed his set would end up re-doing bits of the Conchords. He has some great Kiwi characters and mixed in with funny anecdotes about his new filmstar status. Plus, the man does some amazing sound-effects. My sister and I were it tears at the end after the Vietnam song and the bit with a fly. That will only make sense if you’ve seen his set but it was very good.

*his words, not mine

Edinburgh Fringe – Day One

Don’t know what to see at the Fringe 2009? Well this probably won’t help you because most of these shows have sold out. Sorry.

0810 – Landed at Edinburgh airport, tired but grumpy. Waited for my parents to arrive on their flight an hour later in the Costa coffee with highly irritating lounge jazz type music playing. I became more grumpy.

1000 – Arrived at the Novotel courtousy of a slightly unintelligible, but very charming taxi driver. He’s really not in favour of the new tram system coming to the city.

1200 – Went to Ryan’s cafe and had a monster of a burger whilst waiting for my sister and the rest of her comedy troupe Banterland to arrive and say hello. It was very fleeting.

1440 – My first show of the Fringe – the very fabulous Superclump. A group of 7/8 young comedians perform some very funny sketches. The venue is the GRV, just off Guthrie Street, and it’s quite small so get a ticket early. The gang includes Elis James, Benjamin Partridge, Tom Crane, Sian Harris, Nat Luurtsema, Henry Parker, Henry Widdicombe, Josh Widdicombe and Mike Wozniak. The sketches are slightly surreal, and mix in a good dollop of physical humour with the clever wordy stuff. And you’ll never see party bags in the same way again.

1615 – The Hotel. Mark Watson has taken over an old hotel on George Street and filled it with very funny skits and bits and pieces. I really enjoyed wandering round the rooms, interacting with the hotel staff, whilst not really knowing what’s going on. Described as: “a comedy of sorts, with no script, no characters and no plots.” I was serenaded by a waiter, had a psychological test, was locked in a box, had lights shined in my eyes, heard wise words from a guru and a pep talk from a fitness instructor. Weirdly wonderful.

1730 – After all this hard work, time for a few beers in Brass Monkey.

1900 – Mmm battered haggis and chips from the chippy. What a revelation.

2045 – Rhod Gilbert @ The Pleasance Courtyard. Enraged about all the right things (washing machines and hoovers to name a few), Mr Gilbert disects his anger-management problems with very gigglesome effect. Whilst Iwas exhausted just watching him, the hour spent in his company completely whizzed by. He’s sold out but there are a few extra dates here.

2200 – More beers at the Pleasance courtyard and then bed.

Fringe frolics here I come!

Soon I shall be jumping on a plane, packing my jolly little self up to Scotland, to enjoy a very quick flit at the Edinburgh Fringe. Due to some fantastically organised friends and family, I’ve got tickets to see Stewart Lee, Rhys Darby (of Flight of the Conchords fame) and um, something else I’ve momentarily forgotten.

However I’m sure much of my pleasure will come from the surprises, the things I haven’t booked up. Along with everyone else at the Fringe, I’m there to find “the next big thing”, or act. Knowing me, I’ll massively miss the mark and see a batch of stuff, none of it will ever be “big”. But I’ll have a silly fun time doing it.

The REAL reason I’m going to the Fringe is out of loyalty to a group of exceptionally talented and hilarious friends/siblings.

First up, my little sister Nicola Bolsover, is in action as part of the Free Fringe, with a few of her comedy chums. They’ve all just graduated from Canterbury’s School of Funny aka The University of Kent’s MA in Drama and stand up comedy. Edinburgh can be a bit pricey so if you’re short on pennies, go to some of the Free Fringe’s events. Her troupe is called Banterland and they are doing their gigs at The Rat Pack. Go along and see some fresh new acts in all their weird and warped glory.

Next plug is for some pals from Cardiff. There’s a sketch group called Superclump, who the Guardian have descibed as “disgustingly talented”. I think. I can’t remember the exact quote. Talented was definitely in there. Well I’m sure they’ll be fabulous as they include the lovely Benjamin Partridge and the charming Elis James. Wowzers. Both lads also have their solo show so ch-ch-check it out. Plus, I’ll give a mention to the terribly chucklesome Mike Bubbins. He’s got a show n’all. It’s like a Welsh invasion.

I’ll be reporting back one I have immersed myself in all the delights. Taa raa…

Big In Japan

Me and the band in Tokyo

Six thousand miles away in Japan, there’s a band that sell thousands of records and top the charts. They’re called Abingdon Boys School.

Abingdon is a town in Oxfordshire with a population of around 34,500 and there is a boys school called Abingdon School. The band have never played in the UK, let alone Abingdon, so why the name?

I was out on holiday in Japan and curious to meet this band that seemed to have a strange link with Oxfordshire.

Initial research showed me fan sites that claim the name links to Radiohead, as the band met and formed at Abingdon School.

However, the band claim this is not really the case.

Ra-ras, ruffles and unisex unitards – fashion gone bonkers

It was my day off work today so I decided to go to Reading for a day trip. “Ah-ha, mistake number one” I hear you cry. Well, I have friends there who I was meeting for dinner. Which was lovely. But my real mistake was deciding to do a little bit of shopping first.

I’d been to the Oracle Centre in Reading as a 15 year old when I was in the town for a regular swimming competition. In the sessions I wasn’t swimming I’d escape to the shopping centre and eat Millie’s Cookies and drink McDonald’s milkshakes (the diet of a true swimming champ). I remember the centre as a shopping mecca.

I think if I had returned as a 15 year old today I would have enjoyed myself more. The choice of shops wasn’t bad, but the clothes in them were.

Topshop was awash with horrid florid flowery skirts and dresses. Which even my purple-eyeshadow-clad German teacher wouldn’t have worn in 1983. If it wasn’t strewn with violent violets, dresses were covered in some kind of Pocahontas-themed tassles. All the clothes seemed to be constructed for pre-pubescents. They had no room for hips or breasts, and by the shape of them, I could have been in Topman. Don’t even get me started on playsuits.

H&M seemed to have had some kind of identity crisis, not knowing if it was young and trendy or savvy workwear. It just had drab trousers and lurid polyester tops.

Shoes were either vertiginously high, or had some some kind of Roman bondage theme going on. Office, Faith, Topshop and Zara all had identical pairs in.

I know I sound like an old fogey but I don’t get it. When I was 15, I could have worn these clothes – I would have looked a plonker but they would have fit. But I would never have had the money to buy a purple flowery lycra dress for £45. Now, I have a job, I could buy a dress that much. But I wouldn’t because it’s hideous. So who is buying this tat?

I know this sounds like the rant of an old biddy, but I feel seriously out of the fashion loop.

(PS – Whilst I’m in ranting mode… What the blazes has happened to Cinnamon Grahams?? Now called ‘Curiously Cinnamon’. WHAT?? Or sorry, to coin a Topshop-sporting, Skins-loving yoof, WTF??? According to ‘dontpanicpikey‘ “these people are cereal renamers and there should be a law against it”. Hear, hear Mr Pikey.)

Europe on film

 

I watched Before Sunrise last night, and apart from turning me slightly soppily romantic for a couple of hours, it served as an excellent piece of propaganda for the city of Vienna. If you’ve not seen it, the premise is that a French girl meets an American guy on the train from Budapest to Paris. They get on well and decide to get off the train in Vienna and explore until, well, the eponymous sunrise.

For the hour of the film that is in Vienna it serves as a cinematic tour of the city. Not the obviously touristy bits, but the more normal but special places. The funfare, walks along the river, grungy pubs and clubs, street corners and open air cafes. I’ve not yet been to Vienna, but I want to go now! It got me thinking what other films should have been sponsored by a European city’s tourism board…

 

France

Paris – Obviously it’s been in numerous films, but it’s at its most beautiful in Amelie. I can’t help but as soon as I start watching, wishing I was in Paris. A less fantastical, glossy version of Paris is seen in 2 Days in Paris, but still a great snapshot of Paris in all its cafe culture and artisan bars.

 

Germany

Berlin – Goodbye Lenin! It may be 1989 Berlin, but it still looks fabulous. Also in a Cold War chic kinda way, The Lives of Others also makes me long for one of my favourite cities on earth.

 

Belgium

Bruges – Slightly obvious, In Bruges. Brilliantly mocks the twee elements of this small Belgian city, whilst conversely showing how pretty and charming the place is.

 

Ukraine

Although it paints a bleak and rather agricultural picture, Everything is Illuminated shows a country which probably doesn’t have too many Western cinematic moments.

 

Italy

Venice – I suppose all Bond films do a great promotional job on all the exotic locations they film in, but for me, the scenes in Venice in Casino Royale really stuck out. The water and the city looked beautiful, crisp, clean and exciting. Whereas in reality, I think Venice is a little more overcrowded and pigeon infested.

 

Greece

Mamma Mia! certainly does a good job at promoting a holiday on a Greek island. It looks stunning – clear water, sandy beaches and friendly locals. In reality, there is usually a terrible sewage problem, the streets smell of vomit from the British binge-drinkers the night before and the locals aren’t so friendly.

 

I’ve tried to think of places that are representing themselves (rather than the cheapo method of film production where they film in the Czech Republic or Hungary and pretend it’s medieval France). I’ll add to the list as more films hit me…

A tour of Oxford (punctuated by pubs)

So technically, a pub crawl, although I don’t want to label it such.

I’ve been in Oxford for about 6 months and one of the city’s most endearing features is it’s abundance of good watering holes. In terms of nightlife after 11pm, it’s slightly lacking, but for an after work beer or a lazy afternoon’s drinking, it’s perfect.

A few weeks ago, together with my trusted drinking companion Martina, we decided to test out the latter.

The Jericho Tavern, Walton Street

Our first point of call, and we eased ourselves into the afternoon with a diet coke. Very rock and roll. I’d only been to the JT in the evening and thought it was quite a good place. Lively, nice (if a little overpriced) grub and some very attractive clientele. However in the mid-afternoon it was a little lacking. The clientele was still attractive (it was really only myself and Martina in there) but there was no atmosphere. To replace the lack of atmosphere they decided to blast us with music. It didn’t work, so we drank up our pop and left.

In its defence, it is a music venue by night, so maybe we just didn’t start in the best place.  (**)

Jude the Obscure, Walton Street

Much better. Comfy armchairs, a good table, the low hubbub of civilised conversation and our first beer of the voyage. I really like this pub and in future will completely bypass the JT in favour of its next door neighbour. I’m a big fan of the pop art and poster bills on the way to the toilet.

I’ve just realised that all sounded a bit pretentious. Sorry. But I think the pub is going for a bit of an arty vibe.  (****)

 

Doe, a deer, a female deer…

Ahhh the great British countryside. Here are some pics I took while strolling round Knole Park, in Sevenoaks, Kent.

Currently the car park and house is shut, but we still had a good walk about and took pretty pictures of deer. Who apparently get fed too many sandwiches by tourists. We of course knew better and just hoped it wasn’t rutting season.